Today we’re going to talk about the basic procedure of diagnosing an electrical problem. Sometimes, something in your car won’t work and you need to determine why. In most cases it’s either an electrical supply problem of some kind or the component itself doesn’t work. The component itself we will refer to as an electrical load. For instance, a light bulb is a load. A motor could be another load as well. On the first step that you’ll do in these circumstances is actually go to the load and find out whether you’ve got power there. Some cases you’ll check the fuses first, but it’ll depend on the accessibility of the load. In this case, the load is pretty easy to get apps and we’re going to check that first. What we’ll do is we’ll take a typical automotive test light and hook it in parallel with the load to determine if there is the presence of both battery power and ground.
In those case, I can see where the wires come in and a light circuit like this is pretty simple. We’ll first take and hook it up to growl lead on one side and the first side on the other and it won’t make our test light up. That’s an indication that there’s something missing so we need to determine what it is that’s missing. In this case, a tool is hooked up to the battery directly so we can determine if we have power on or off.
We have ground on the ground wire. That’s an indication that we do not have a battery positive, so we need to check upstream. In this case, we need to check the fuses are next step process is actually the check the fuses in the car as I remove the top of the fuse cover to gain access to the fuses inside. I’ll demonstrate in this case this type of a fuse has two little test ports where we can check and see what we have for connection.
After checking the fuse for the suspect’s circuit, we find a bad fuse. So if we remove that fuse and take a look at it, we can see that there is actually a missing gap of fuse. A fuse is designed to melt when too much current flows in a circuit. That appears to be what’s happened in this situation and in this case, we’ll get another fuse reinserted.
Now there are battery positive on both sides of it, and the trunk light is working properly again.
Good afternoon. My name is Tom Burns. I’m a certified auto mechanic from Redding, Pennsylvania. Today we’re going to talk about how to buy fuel treatments. There are differences amongst them where I’ll go over them right here.
It all depends on what purpose you’re looking for. If you’ve got a gas-powered gas powered engine, a regular fuel injection will do. This product right here, Two Plus Two from Burchell works excellent. The intake cleaner and fuel injection cleaner works great if you’ve got water in your fuel system. If you have a water problem, ISO drive works wonders. Overall, the best product I’ve found so far is from Lucas. Lucas makes a ton of products and the supreme in their line. The best thing to do if you have something in mind as to what you’re looking to get out of a fuel treatment is rich in each individual bottle. They all serve different purposes.
Why a vehicle won’t start can be a complicated question, but in many cases, we have to start our diagnosis with some of the basics. There are basically two things that we look for first and that is, does the vehicle have spark and does it have fuel? Those are the two most common reasons why of the vehicle doesn’t start. In this vehicle here, we’re going to do our preliminary checks to determine if that’s one of the reasons why it doesn’t start. The first thing we’re gonna do is we’re going to hook up a fuel pressure gauge to the Schrader valve, a test port on the fuel rail. That way when we turn the ignition on, we’ll be able to tell if the vehicle actually has fuel pop operation. Of course, that’s always very important when dealing with gasoline (be careful not to spill the gasoline).
Keep a fire extinguisher close at hand for safety purposes. The next thing we’re going to do is we need to determine whether or not the computer is sending signals for the vehicle to inject. I’ve disconnected one of the wires from one of the six fuel injectors on this car. I’m inserting a little test light so this way when we crank it over, we should get some indication as to whether or not that signal is being sent. Lastly, we need to know if the vehicle has spark. What we’re going to do is disconnect one of the spark plug wires from a spark plug and install a spark tester and see whether or not it has sparked. Now what we’re going to do is we’re going to crank the tester over and see which one of these things that we have. We’ll just turn the key on and see what happens.
We turned the key on and it came up to 40 PSI, which indicates that the fuel pump works. The next thing we’re gonna do is we’re going to check and see whether or not the Lloyd light blanks and that’ll give us some indication of whether we have signal coming from the computer to turn the injectors on and off. That indicates that we’re good in a good signal from our computer.
A starter is essentially a very powerful 12-volt motor that is designed to turn over your car’s engine to allow it to start. When you turn the key on your ignition 12 volts goes to the solenoid on the starter motor. This solenoid does two things. It allows voltage to go to the starter motor itself, which causes it to spin. It also engages a gear on the shaft of the starter motor, which meshes with the flywheel on the engine. When the flywheel engages the starter motor gear, it turns with the starter motor.
Once the engine is running and you release the key, the solenoid retracts and the gear disengages from the flywheel and the engine is running some signs of a starter motor. Failing may be that the gear does not engage the flywheel, in which case you would hear a whirring sound. It could be a bad starter motor, but it could also be a dead battery or a bad cable or a bad ground connection. The best way to test a starter motor is to hook up a connection or directly to the starter motor to bypass the cable and verify that there are no issues in the wiring harness.
How do you know for sure that your headlights are aimed properly? If they illuminate only the street right in front of your car, they’re probably too low and if other drivers are flashing their high beams at you, they’re probably too high. Here’s how to find out for yourself. On a level ground, park your car with the headlights facing a wall or garage door about 25 feet away. The highest point where the light shines on the door should be about the same or maybe a little bit lower than the height of the headlights themselves measured from the ground and it is perfectly normal for the driver’s side headlight to be a little bit lower so it doesn’t blind oncoming traffic for owners of older Honda’s Acuras in some luxury models. Check for a bubble level over each headlight. That can help set the vertical height, but if you do that, make sure the car is on a level surface to begin with. Always check the height with the car loaded the way you will be driving it. Most of the time that’s because the load in the trunk can change the height. If your headlights are aiming to lower high, your mechanics should be able to realign them relatively quickly using adjustment screws under the hood.
Just like with almost any new gadget or appliance, each brand-new vehicle comes with a manual. It doesn’t provide the basic instructions on how to drive your vehicle -you should have already learned that in driving school. What an automobile owner’s manual provides are explanations on how to use the automobile’s different components and features, such as the windshield wipers, defroster, turn signal lights, etc. Depending on the automobile’s manufacturer, the manual may also contain tips and reminders on basic automobile maintenance (like when to replace your tires), defensive driving (appropriate use seat belt and airbag), and responsible automobile ownership.
However, don’t confuse an automobile owner’s manual with an automobile repair guide. If the first deals with the basic how-to in operating an automobile’s different systems, an automobile repair manual deals with, well, automobile repair. Like an automobile owner’s manual, a repair manual may still contain illustrations, instructions, and tips on how to use and maintain your automobile, but it’s more focused on providing comprehensive instructions in system repairs and automobile parts replacement. If you think that automobile repair has a very wide coverage that it should be hard to put them all in a single manual, you couldn’t be more correct.
If we’re going to compile all kinds of repairs one can do in an automobile, we’d probably be able to produce literally tens of thousands of pages of automobile repair instructions. That’s why automobile repair manuals-whether in print or soft/online copy-come in different kinds. There is the generic automobile repair guide that covers basic troubleshooting, maintenance, and repair of the most commonly replaced components such as turn signals, windshield wiper inserts, and fuses. Because they’re generic, they can be referred to for repairing different vehicle makes and models.
If there are generic repair manuals, there are also vehicle-specific repair manuals. These basically have the same content as the generic manuals. However because they’re specifically made for certain vehicle makes and models, they could provide instructions on more complicated and vehicle-specific diagnoses and automobile repairs. Thanks to Houston’s Best Mobile Mechanic for the tips and tricks to all this!